Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material.

OBJECTIVE: This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used. METHODS: In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers. RESULTS: Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula. CONCLUSION: The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude a été lancée et menée par plusieurs laboratoires, trois des principaux fournisseurs d'ingrédients cosmétiques et quatre marques de cosmétiques en France. Son objectif est de montrer qu'associer les analyses chimiques et génétiques dans l'identification des espèces végétales présente un intérêt et est une approche solide. Dans cette étude, c'est le genre Lavandula qui a été utilisé. MÉTHODES: Dans cette étude, nous avons fait appel à deux méthodes analytiques. L'analyse chimique, à partir de la chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography, UHPLC), et l'analyse génétique en procédant à un codage à barres avec des marqueurs génétiques. RÉSULTATS: Onze espèces de lavande ont été sélectionnées (authentifiées du point de vue botanique) et analysées. Les résultats montrent que trois composés chimiques (acide coumarique hexoside, acide ferulique hexoside et acide rosmarinique) et trois marqueurs génétiques (RbcL, trnH-psbA et ITS) présentent un intérêt pour la différenciation des espèces du genre lavandula. CONCLUSION: Les résultats montrent que la combinaison de méthodes analytiques complémentaires est un système pertinent pour prouver l'identification végétale des espèces de lavande. Cette première étude, réalisée sur une plante qui offre un intérêt pour les cosmétiques, démontre la nécessité de procéder à une authentification à l'aide d'un outil qui conjugue analyse génétique et chimique ; elle représente une avancée par rapport aux méthodes d'investigation traditionnelles utilisées seules, en termes d'identification et de fiabilité de l'authentification.

Pycnoporus laccase-mediated bioconversion of rutin to oligomers suitable for biotechnology applications.

The Pycnoporus fungi are white-rot basidiomycetes listed as food- and cosmetic-grade microorganisms. Three high redox potential laccases from Pycnoporus coccineus and Pycnoporus sanguineus were tested and compared, with the commercial Suberase® as reference, for their ability to synthesise natural active oligomers from rutin (quercetin-3-rutinoside, one of the best-known naturally occurring flavonoid glycosides). The aim of this work was to develop a process with technical parameters (solvent, temperature, reaction time and raw materials) that were easy to scale up for industrial production and compatible with cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulation guidelines. The aqueous mixture of glycerol/ethanol/buffer described in this study met this requirement and allowed the solubilisation of rutin and its oxidative bioconversion into oligomers. The four flavonoid oligomer mixtures synthesised using laccases as catalysts were analysed by high performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-negative electrospray ionisation-multistage mass spectrometry. Their chromatographic elution profiles were compared and 16 compounds were characterised and identified as dimers and trimers of rutin. The oligorutins were different in Suberase® and Pycnoporus laccase reaction mixtures. They were evaluated for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing activities on specific enzymatic targets such as cyclooxygenase (COX-2) and human matrix metalloproteinase 3 (MMP-3). Expressed in terms of IC(50), the flavonoid oligomers displayed a 2.5- to 3-fold higher superoxide scavenging activity than monomeric rutin. Pycnoporus laccase and Suberase® oligorutins led to an inhibition of COX-2 of about 35% and 70%, respectively, while monomeric rutin showed a near-negligible inhibition effect, less than about 10%. The best results on MMP-3 activity were obtained with rutin oligomers from P. sanguineus IMB W006-2 laccase and Suberase® with about 70-75% inhibition.

The auxin-signaling pathway is required for the lateral root response of Arabidopsis to the rhizobacterium Phyllobacterium brassicacearum.

Plant root development is highly responsive both to changes in nitrate availability and beneficial microorganisms in the rhizosphere. We previously showed that Phyllobacterium brassicacearum STM196, a plant growth-promoting rhizobacteria strain isolated from rapeseed roots, alleviates the inhibition exerted by high nitrate supply on lateral root growth. Since soil-borne bacteria can produce IAA and since this plant hormone may be implicated in the high nitrate-dependent control of lateral root development, we investigated its role in the root development response of Arabidopsis thaliana to STM196. Inoculation with STM196 resulted in a 50% increase of lateral root growth in Arabidopsis wild-type seedlings. This effect was completely abolished in aux1 and axr1 mutants, altered in IAA transport and signaling, respectively, indicating that these pathways are required. The STM196 strain, however, appeared to be a very low IAA producer when compared with the high-IAA-producing Azospirillum brasilense sp245 strain and its low-IAA-producing ipdc mutant. Consistent with the hypothesis that STM196 does not release significant amounts of IAA to the host roots, inoculation with this strain failed to increase root IAA content. Inoculation with STM196 led to increased expression levels of several IAA biosynthesis genes in shoots, increased Trp concentration in shoots, and increased auxin-dependent GUS staining in the root apices of DR5::GUS transgenic plants. All together, our results suggest that STM196 inoculation triggers changes in IAA distribution and homeostasis independently from IAA release by the bacteria.